🔗 Share this article

When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.